If you could save time and effort in the garden while still getting just as many crops, you probably would. By making a few small adjustments, you can add plants to your garden that will save money and time in the long run, and you'll still reap the benefits of the harvest.
You can achieve this by planting vegetables and herbs that self-sow. Knowing which plants to initially purchase, and how to manage them in spring, summer and fall can create an abundance of food — and free seeds over the years.
In your gardens and raised beds, you may have already noticed that, as certain veggies and flowers grow, they sometimes send up "volunteer" plants in places you didn't plant them. That's the effect of self-sowing.
Self-sowing plants tend to sprout up on their own away from where you planted them. You might have been tempted to weed them out. And indeed, some plants do benefit from that type of pruning. But you can begin to take advantage of certain crops' propensity to self-sow and, in turn, you'll create free seeds and eventually, free food.
Rethinking plants' usefulness once the harvest is over
Charlie Nardozzi's book, The Continuous Vegetable Garden, has a wealth of information on self-sowing plants, herbs and flowers. These plants fall into three categories: annuals, biennials or perennials, and knowing which type you're growing is key.
Throughout the growing season, being a "garden editor" — that's removing certain plants that have passed their peak — is a great skill. Most gardeners are programmed to remove plants once they've produced their season's yield.
But instead, grow more in tune with nature and leave certain plants in the garden once they've gone to seed. Crops like lettuces, spinach, kale, arugula or herb plants like cilantro, dill or fennel will produce free seeds for next season's crops.
Even edible flowers, like nasturtium and sunflower, can produce free seeds for you to plant later. Plus, as these plants grow and then "bolt," they often produce flowers that will benefit pollinators late in the season, too.
How to get free seeds from your vegetables and herbs
After certain vegetable, herb and flower plants have matured in the garden, tall stalks will grow from the center of the plants and produce seed heads.
You can leave the plants to drop the seed wherever they're growing, and that's where they'll germinate. They may germinate in fall, in which case you'll get a crop of microgreens.
If you'd rather move the plants to a different part of your garden, just cut the seed head from the stalk and sprinkle the seeds elsewhere, and next year, they'll pop up.
You can also collect and store the seed to sow next spring. When they germinate, thin them well and allow spacing between them. This technique works for many types of greens and herbs.
Saving seeds from other vegetables, like cucumbers, melons and squashes is more hands-on, but you can try this method with some cherry tomatoes, especially the heirloom Matt's Wild Cherry. Simply let some ripe tomatoes drop to the ground (or move them to a preferred spot in your garden), and some of those seedlings will come back true to seed.
This method provides a free crop of vegetables, herbs and flowers that'll look beautiful and be tasty, too.
Plant seeds on top of snow
If you're itching to plant things outside now, even in very early spring, give this technique a try: Start sowing lettuce seeds now by sprinkling them directly on top of the snow in your vegetable garden.
As the snow melts, those seeds will eventually reach the soil. And when the perfect conditions arise, like proper sun levels, warmer air temperatures and the correct soil moisture, the lettuce seeds will germinate and grow.
You'll get an early lettuce crop — and remember to let some of the lettuce plants bolt and go to seed so you can use those seeds, too!
How to plant seeds in toilet paper rolls
Q: What do you think about starting seeds in toilet paper rolls to be planted whole in spring? - Susan, in Lyndon
A: This idea works well, as it's similar to starting seeds in peat pots.
One suggestion, though, is that when you're ready to transplant the seedlings into the soil in your garden, break up the cardboard toilet paper roll a bit. The cardboard will be slow to break down in the soil and that could inhibit the seedlings' root growth.
How to save a plant sale fundraiser from jumping worms
Q: I am a trustee of our local library here in Craftsbury. Each year we have done a plant sale where gardeners split up their plants or otherwise donate something from their yard for the cause. With the concern around jumping worms, we are planning to cancel our annual plant sale fundraiser. This is a significant hit to our revenue, not to mention a fun way for gardeners and would-be gardeners to swap plants and helpful gardening tips. I am curious if there is a safe way to conduct a plant sale as described or if you have any suggestions to replace the fundraiser with something of a similar format. We have also done garden tours, which are popular, but don’t raise the same amount of revenue or interest. I really enjoy hearing your tips, thank you for your public outreach! - Vasilios, in Craftsbury
A: Jumping worms are also called snake worms or crazy worms, and they are becoming more and more common in garden soil in our region. These worms can easily travel in soil and are quite destructive to soil structure and health, so you are right to be wary!
You can save the library plant sale as long as you create a way to get rid of any jumping worms, eggs and cocoons that might be in the soil or on plant roots. And you can do this by setting up a "wash station."
Designate a place near a water source with a hose, then set up large plastic bags or tubs. Plant sale attendees can hose off any soil from the plants, roots and containers that might potentially harbor jumping worms and eggs. Let that soil fall into the bags and bins.
Next, have some moistened newspaper or other material handy so folks can wrap the roots of the plants for transporting home and transplanting in new soil.
Finally, don't just toss that washed-off soil. Keep it in bags or bins, away from other plants and soil. Once it gets warm enough outside, lay the soil out on a driveway or flat surface that gets plenty of sun. Let the collected soil "cook" there until it reaches around 105 degrees Fahrenheit, and let the soil bake for at least three days.
These steps add some extra care and planning to the plant sale's setup, but this method will help kill adult jumping worms and any eggs in the soil.
All Things Gardening is powered by you, our audience! Send us your toughest conundrums and join the fun. Email your question to gardening@vermontpublic.org or better yet, leave a voicemail with your gardening question so we can use your voice on the air! Call Vermont Public at 1-800-639-2192.
Listen to All Things Gardening Friday evenings at 5:44 p.m., or Sunday mornings at 9:35 a.m., and subscribe to the podcast to listen any time.
Updated for the 2026 growing season! Subscribe to Sprouted, our free, 10-week email course for beginning to intermediate gardeners.
