After lilac and rhododendron have had their time in the sun — and before high-wattage hydrangea steal the blooming shrub show later in the season — there are some early summer flowering shrubs that can stun in the landscape, too.
Look for several native blossoms, like ninebark, spirea, mock orange, tree lilac and elderberry.
One ninebark variety, "Summer Wine," has serrated, burgundy-colored leaves and grows up to 4 feet tall. As it comes into full bloom in early summer, ninebark boasts clusters of pale pink flowers.
Another native early summer flowering shrub that works for larger landscapes is the mock orange. This grows between 5 and 7 feet tall.
If you have a smaller space and want to add a flowering shrub for early summer blooms, try the dwarf variety called "Illuminati Arch." This one grows 3 to 4 feet tall with fragrant white flowers.
"Spirea Double Play" is a spirea that grows with contrasting colors in a mounding shape. When it flowers this time of year, this spirea has pink flowers with chartreuse colored leaves.
Elderberries are another native flowering shrub that provide colorful foliage and plentiful berries for birds and pollinators. Look for European varieties such as black lace and lemony lace.
And finally, the syringa reticulata, or Japanese tree lilac, grows up to 20 feet tall and will be blooming soon. These stately trees work well on a street side or border.
Some fragrant, variegated versions, like "Chantilly Lace" and "Snow Dance" look great in the landscape and will add color and variety right into mid summer.
And though it isn't native, weigila grows up to 6 feet tall and hummingbirds and bumblebees flock to it. "Sonic Bloom" weigela blooms with tons of trumpet-shaped pink flowers, some with contrasting burgundy colored leaves.
How to control sawflies before they defoliate hibiscus
Q: Can you recommend a natural method to get rid of sawflies on hibiscus before they turn into larvae that eat the leaves? - Karen, via email
A: The sawfly larvae live on the underside of hibiscus leaves and can quickly defoliate your hibiscus plant — so getting rid of them is key to keeping your plant in good health.
The most natural method would be to squish the sawfly larvae between your thumb and index finger! And this method can work, provided you don't have too many.
If you've got a ton of them, then spraying is the way to go. But a common treatment for other pests — bacillus thuringiensis, or BT — will not work on sawflies, as they are not in the lepidoptera family. Instead, try using Spinosad spray. It can work well here, but be cautious; it can be toxic to bees and pollinators.
Use this spray in the evening, when the wind is calm and the bees are gone for the day. Once dry, this treatment is less toxic to pollinators.
Is it the roots or the soil that are hindering growth?
Q: In my front garden I have three Russian sage bushes planted, and right next to them seems to be a trouble spot. I've planted all kinds of perennials there and they do great during the season, but next year maybe one plant will come back and that's it. Could it be the root system from the Russian sage is blocking other plants from thriving. Poor soil, etc? It's like a little barren wasteland. - Dave, in Rutland
A: Instead of the root system, the culprit may just be poor soil. And, gratefully, that can be remedied.
Begin by digging out some of the soil and amend it heavily with some compost, or raise it up with some compost and topsoil.
Then, move in some other plants that could pair well with the Russian sage, like asters or anything in the artemisia or salvia family.
Hopefully, these changes and adjustments will get things thriving again.
Two trees, same treatment, different outcomes
Q: We have a mature 10-year-old Japanese maple that appeared to have weathered our past winter just fine. Then all the budding stopped about three weeks ago. Its twin companion tree has shown its best spring growth ever while always being the more 'temperamental' of the two. I live in Underhill at 850' with good east and south-sloping exposure. Soil is very sandy that has been well amended and cared for. Otherwise, everything in our gardens has exploded in a riot of growth with this spring's nearly daily rains. - Eric, in Underhill
A: It's a very existential question! Two trees are treated the same, and one is thriving but the other is not doing well.
It's hard to know what might cause this, but in every landscape — no matter its size — micro-climates exist that affect growing.
For now, help out the maple tree that's struggling by pruning it back a bit. This can reduce the load of leaves on that plant and may encourage it to send out some new shoots. Hopefully, it'll recover and grow as well as its friend next door.
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