Gardening expert Charlie Nardozzi answers listeners' springtime gardening questions!
All green leaves but no blossoms
Q: For reasons unknown, our daffodil beds are producing lots of green leaves this year, but relatively few blossoms. These are established beds that have produced abundantly in the past. Some have suggested an overapplication of nitrogen-rich fertilizer, but I am observing the same behavior in daffodil beds owned by neighbors, as well as in volunteer patches in the woods. This leads me to suspect a weather-related response, perhaps adverse weather conditions last fall. Any thoughts on the matter? - David, in Woodstock
A: This might be less about weather and more about the age of your daffodils. Over time, as with many spring flowering bulbs, daffodils get overcrowded, and small bulblets begin to form that take energy away from the main bulb and that impedes flowering.
This year, once the bulbs' foliage begins to yellow, dig them up, separate those bulblets from the main bulb, and then replant them, either in the same hole or a different one.
Add a little compost at the bottom, but don't fertilize them yet. If you're going to fertilize them, do it in the fall; that's when daffodils are actively growing. That should help you get more daffodil blooms next year.
Dried out holly bushes
Q: I have a Blue Boy holly mystery. Years ago (20?), I planted an inverted horseshoe-shaped rim around where the old icehouse went. The hollies did well for years, then one side began to fail to the point where it's now an eyesore. I followed your advice (a few years ago) — fertilized (Holly Tone), mulched, weeded, trimmed — no difference. Most of the bushes are female, and the other side is splendid. The only thing I can think of is that the area that is doing poorly is exposed to the west winds of winter. Years ago, I covered them with burlap, then stopped because it was a task. Do you think that might be the problem? Anything else you can think of? - Laurel, via email
A: The evergreen hollies are very susceptible to drying out and desiccating in the winter, especially in cold winds.
Perhaps revert to putting up a burlap barrier on that west side, and make it a couple of layers thick to see if that will protect the holly bushes better.
And try protecting them with an anti-desiccant spray in November, then again in February or March, as long as the daytime temperature is above 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
You can also cut hollies way back this time of year and they will regrow in a couple of years.
Fighting invasive jumping worms
Q: I’ve always been a fairly resilient, roll-with-the-punches organic gardener — both ornamental and edible. Over the years I’ve adapted to weather, pests, crop failures and human mistakes, and every season I look forward to learning and improving my methods. Four or five years ago, my gardening neighbors began noticing infestations of jumping worms. Soon after, I identified them on my own property. Since then, I’ve tried nearly everything currently recommended — all the precautions for bringing in material, of course. I’ve solarized heavily infested beds, only to realize I’d likely spread worms into lesser-affected areas in the process. How do gardeners continue gardening well in infested spaces? Should we abandon no-dig? What actually helps gardeners keep going? Still fighting for the soil. - Robin, in Waterbury
A: Jumping worms, or snake worms, can really devastate gardens. They consume massive amounts of organic material and their castings create less-than-ideal soil.
There are a couple things to try, if what you've already done hasn't worked well.
Container gardening can give you more control over the soil. Or, if you want to stay with raised bed gardening, create some new raised beds, but add window screening on the bottom of them.
The window screening is small enough so earthworms would have a tough time getting through it and that could give you a chance to build up new soil while keeping the worms at bay.
A no-dig system could also work. Be extra diligent about the compost you add by solarizing it before using it.
Do this by laying compost out on a driveway on a warm summer day, and covering with a clear plastic tarp. Let it stay there for at least three days ensuring the compost temperature will reach over 105 degrees Fahrenheit. That will kill all of the Asian jumping worms and their eggs making the compost safe to use.
Treating beetle grubs with nematodes
Q: We are plagued every year around July 4th by Japanese beetles that descend on our bushes and destroy all the flowers before disappearing in September. I've tried everything from traps to sprays to picking them off, and now I'm wondering about HB nematodes. Do you recommend these, and if so, how and when to use them in our yard? - Elizabeth, in Fairfax
A: Using nematodes for Japanese beetle grubs can work very well. Order nematodes online or get them locally, if you can.
They usually come in a sponge that you ring out into a pail of water and then run them through a hose sprayer with a special filter. Spray the areas of your lawn and soil where the Japanese beetles were infesting your garden last year and water them in well for up to a week.
Hopefully that treatment will parasitize the grubs and you'll have fewer adult beetles plaguing your lawn and gardens this year.
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