The first time I went to South Korea was on a college singing tour of Asia during which we sang 35 concerts in seven countries in two months. Much of the time we stayed with local families - which made for even more intense experiences. In Korea we gave three concerts, including one for more than 7,000 people.
The second time, just a month ago, was to talk about the book I wrote with Rick Peyser about his work on behalf of farmers who supply Green Mountain Coffee Roasters. A Korean coffee company had translated the book and invited us to give a round of interviews and talks. Much of Rick's talk was about the ideas of corporate social responsibility and the work of the non-profit Rick started called Food 4 Farmers.
Some impressions from 50 years ago were still vivid - the brooding threat of North Korea, the spicy kimchi cabbage and pulgogi BBQ meat, and a people trying to find their own path between neighboring giants China and Japan.
Today’s South Korea is an economic powerhouse, with industrial giants like Kia, Samsung, and Hyundai; Korean Ban-Ke-Moon leads the United Nations.
Seoul is an attractive mix of 21st century glass and steel skyscrapers, with quiet 19th century side streets. I was impressed at how efficiently 25 million people are able to move around the metropolitan area by subway, bus and foot. If obesity is a problem there, we didn't see it.
Coffee shops are everywhere with as many as four or five on one block. Supposedly, there are more Starbucks shops in Seoul than in any other world city. Within all that growth, Koreans are trying to build a segment of the coffee industry where, as one person said, "We recognize that coffee as a business depends upon its farmers having a good livelihood."
During our visit, our hosts showered us with insights about Korea , of which they were obviously proud, but also critical. Of their work ethic one said, "The Korean workweek is Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday Thursday, Friday, Friday, Friday." Another said wistfully, "We ambitious women are torn between hopes for the coming of Prince Charming and the real possibility we will have to go without marriage."
The most impressive bit of social and intellectual history I learned was that in the 15th century King Sejong the Great created a Korean alphabet of 24 letters that would be accessible to rich and poor - an action that’s had a huge effect on Korean pride, identity and commitment to universal education.
When it comes to travel, I've decided, it's best when you can give and receive.